u
should comb your hair straight back and wad it into a funny little
bump. Quite the contrary. Comb it back if you will, but have the coil
loose and graceful. It is very bad for the hair either to be pulled
back tightly or to be closely arranged. Ventilation is necessary, and,
by the way, caressing and smoothing the hair with the fingers is a good
tonic for its growth and beauty.

A few loose short curls about the face seem necessary to the good looks
of the majority of women, but the heavy bang was shelved years ago.
Wasn't it hideous? But perhaps you are too young to remember. Get out
the family album, then, and see for yourself.

[Illustration: MRS. JOHN JACOB ASTOR]

There are certain rules for hairdressing that were just as good in
Eve's hairpinless age as they will be a hundred years hence. By keeping
these rules in mind you can make a picture or a cartoon of yourself,
just as you wish. The one thing to remember is that the lines and
proportions of the face must be carefully considered and a mode of
hairdressing adopted which will lessen and not exaggerate those lines
and proportions. Be alert to your defects, and do not forget that what
may be essentially appropriate for one woman will be dismally
inappropriate for another.

Suppose a woman has a square, heavy jaw. She is just the one who flings
defiance at prevailing fashions and clings to the dear old straight
bangs deep over her eyes. The heavy chin makes a straight line, the
heavy fringe makes another, and the result is that her face is as
perfectly square as rules and measurements could make it. Let this
deluded lady shake herself together and mend her ways. By making the
top of her head appear wider the broad jaws will--according to all laws
of reasoning--seem to be narrower. A few dainty puffs towering up
prettily and a soft, fluffy fringe left flying out over the ears will
not only add grace to the forehead but lighten the heaviness of the
lower part of the face. A bow of ribbon or any other perky little
headdress will detract from the straight cross lines.

Then there is the woman with the sharp chin, the woman of the
wedge-shaped face. She invariably wears her hair over her ears and so
elongates the V lines of her chin. By arranging the hair close to the
sides of her head and putting it in a soft low coil on the top a much
more pleasing effect can be got.

The same rule for the heavy-chinned woman applies to the chubby,
fat-faced feminine mortal