oe 20th
Hammerfest 21st
North Cape or Nordkyn 24th

I hope that I have been successful in giving you an idea of day and
night in the Frigid Zone.

CHAPTER VI

FINE WEATHER LEAVING HAPARANDA.--WINDSTORMS SUCCEED.--A FINLANDER'S
FARM.--STRANGE FIREPLACE.--INTERIOR OF A COW-HOUSE.--QUEER FOOD
FOR CATTLE.--PASSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE.

I left Haparanda in the beginning of January, surrounded by the friends
who had taken such an interest in me. The atmosphere was clear, and not
a cloud was to be seen in the pale blue sky, turning into greenish as it
approached the horizon. There was not a breath of wind. Once the
thermometer marked 30 degrees below zero.

"Be careful," said my friends. "This is treacherous weather for ears and
noses, there is danger of their getting frozen; rub them, and also your
face, now and then with snow. Keep your ears covered, and protect them
with your hood. If it becomes colder put on your mask."

I thanked them for their kind advice, but replied: "No mask for me just
now, I want to breathe this pure invigorating air as much as I can. I
want it to reach my lungs."

[Illustration: "It was indeed, a fearful wind storm."]

"Be careful in such weather," they repeated. "This is beautiful weather
indeed, but sometimes it does not last long and is followed by furious
gales, or great snowstorms; but we hope this fine weather will follow
you for many days. Often it lasts quite a while."

Then we bade good-bye to each other. They tucked the sheepskin round me,
and bade the driver to take good care of Paulus.

Soon after this we were out of Haparanda and on the highroad leading to
Pajala, which was about one hundred and ten miles further north, there
being ten or twelve post stations between the two places.

Sleighing was fine, the road had been used much, so we went on at a very
fast pace. It was just the weather people, horses, dogs, and reindeer
liked. I liked it also very much, for it was so exhilarating, and I felt
so well and so strong. I was ready, nevertheless, for all kinds of
weather, and I was fully prepared to meet great storms, for I wanted to
encounter the blizzards of the Arctic regions just to find out how
strongly the wind could blow. I found out later!

I changed horses at several post stations during the day, among them the
stations of Korpikyla, Niemis, Ruskola, and Matarengi. I found that