number of small rooms, and on the farther side was the
dwelling-house, round which ran a balcony. In it were numerous doors;
the largest opened into the _sala_ or hall, which was furnished with
several net hammocks, a row of chairs, and two sofas; while
straw-matting covered the floor. Inside of it was a smaller
well-furnished room, called the _quadro_, which was the usual
reception-room; and beyond it were the dining and sleeping rooms, and
the nursery. They all opened into an inner court-yard, the walls of
which were ornamented with fresco paintings; and part of it was laid out
as a flower-garden, with a fountain in the centre. From it one door led
to the kitchen, and another to the stable. The windows were mostly in
the roof, as were those in Pompeii and many ancient cities; indeed it
was very similar to the plan of building followed in the south of Spain.
On hearing of our arrival, Don Jose hurried out and received us with the
greatest attention. Our animals were led off to the stables by a number
of servants, and we were conducted to the _quadro_, where he instantly
ordered refreshments to be brought. We begged leave in the mean time to
be allowed to change our dusty dresses. On our return we found hammocks
slung, in which our host invited us to rest ourselves. In a hot climate
there cannot be a more luxurious couch than a net hammock, as it allows
the air to circulate freely round the body in the coolest part of the
room. The softly-stuffed sofa of an English or French drawing-room
would be insufferable. A young negress slave then brought in a tray
with cups, into which she poured out some chocolate, making it froth up
till they overflowed, and then handed them round to us. Cigars were
next offered to us, and we smoked them till suppertime.
For this meal we adjourned to the dining-room, where our host insisted
on waiting on us. It was a repetition of dinner, which the family had
taken according to custom at two o'clock. The wife of Don Jose, and her
maiden sister and three daughters, pretty, palefaced, black-eyed girls,
with hair like the raven's wing, were present, as were the family priest
and two gentlemen, cousins of our host. We first had an insipid kind of
soup, and then their principal dish, called _puchero_. It contained all
sorts of meats and vegetables mixed up together--beef, pork, ham, bacon,
sausage, poultry, cabbage, _yuccas camotes_ (a sort of potato),
potatoes, rice, peas, _chochi
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