astions, and has seven gates and three posterns.
On the south-east is the citadel of Santa Catalina, with small guns
mounted on it. Across the Rimac is a bridge of stone with fine arches,
leading to the suburb of San Lazaro. This bridge is the favourite
evening resort of the citizens. There are a number of churches, with
handsome fronts of stone, and lofty steeples, which must be strongly
built not to be overthrown by the earthquakes.
Lima contained about 80,000 inhabitants, of whom 20,000 were whites, and
the rest negroes, Indians, and various half-castes. There were
sixty-three noblemen who enjoyed the title of count or marquis, and
about forty who were noble without titles. The Spaniards considered
themselves belonging to a race of beings far above the native Indians,
or even the Creoles; and would much more readily give their daughters in
marriage to a poor countryman of their own than to a rich American-born
person. The people of Lima are much addicted to gambling, especially
the higher orders; but public gambling-houses are not allowed. The
white inhabitants have sallow complexions, with little or no colour on
their cheeks. The ladies have generally interesting countenances, with
good eyes and teeth, and a profusion of black hair. The walking-dress
of females of all ranks is the _saya y manto_. The _saya_ consists of a
petticoat of velvet, satin, or stuff, generally black or of a cinnamon
tint, plaited in very small folds. It sits close to the body, and shows
the shape to advantage. At the bottom it is so narrow that the wearer
can only make very short steps. The skirt is ornamented with lace,
fringe, spangles, or artificial flowers. The ladies of higher rank wear
it of various colours, purple, pale blue, lead colour, or striped. The
_manto_ is a hood of thin black silk, drawn round the waist and then
carried over the head. By closing it before, they can hide the face,
one eye alone being visible, or sometimes they show only half the face.
A gay shawl thrown over the shoulders and appearing in front, a rosary
in the hand, silk stockings, and satin shoes, complete the costume. It
seems intended to serve the purpose of a domino, as the wearer can thus
completely conceal her features. At the present day, however, the
European costume has been generally adopted. They delight in possessing
a quantity of jewellery; but they appear to be still fonder of perfumes
and sweet-scented flowers, and spare no
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