ave guessed the town had passed, and
was, indeed, still passing, through troublous times. Mr. Perkins,
however, was pessimistic, and told us appearances were misleading. He
rightly foresaw many lean years for those interested in the immediate
future of the Rand, though even he, perhaps, hardly realized how lean
those would become. Since those days much water has flown under the
bridge, and the trade of the town, not to speak of the mining industry,
has gone from bad to worse. Recently Federation, the dream of many a
statesman connected with South Africa, has opened a new vista of
political peace and prosperity to its chastened citizens. Many of these,
in affluent circumstances in 1896, have since gone under financially;
but some of the original inhabitants still remain to show in the future
that they have learned wisdom from their past troubles, brought on
principally by their mad haste to get rich too quickly.

During our stay at Johannesburg we made an expedition to Pretoria in
order to see our host and other friends, who were still on bail there,
awaiting their trial, and also to visit the seat of the Boer Government.
By these remarkable State railways the short journey of thirty-two miles
occupied three hours. We passed one very large Boer laager, or military
camp, on the line, which looked imposing enough in the bright sunlight,
with its shining array of white-tarpaulin-covered waggons; companies of
mounted burghers, armed to the teeth, and sitting their ragged but
well-bred ponies as if glued to the saddle, were to be seen galloping to
and fro. Although the teeth of the enemy had been drawn for the present,
the Boers were evidently determined to keep up a martial display. As
Pretoria was approached the country became very pretty: low hills and
many trees, including lovely weeping-willows, appeared on the landscape,
and away towards the horizon was situated many a snug little farm;
running streams caught the rays of the sun, and really rich herbage
supplied the pasture for herds of fat cattle. The town itself did not
prove specially interesting. An imposing space called Church Square was
pointed out to us with great pride by the Dutch gentleman who kindly did
cicerone. There we saw the little primitive "dopper" church where the
President always worshipped, overshadowed and dwarfed by the magnificent
Houses of Parliament, built since the Transvaal acquired riches, and by
the no less grand Government Offices. As we we