the oil,
the silk, the spice, and delicious fruits of its lower region; the
beautiful forests, the flocks, the game, the tar, the cork, the honey of
its second; the snow and ice of its third; it affords from its caverns a
variety of minerals and other productions--cinnabar, mercury, sulphur,
alum, nitre, and vitriol; so that this wonderful mountain at the same
time produces every necessary, and every luxury of life."

CHAPTER III.

ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN.

The most suitable time for ascending Etna.--The ascent commenced.--
Nicolosi.--Etna mules.--Night journey through the upper Regions of
the mountain.--Brilliancy of the Stars.--Proposed Observatory on
Etna.--The Casa Inglesi.--Summit of the Great Crater.--Sunrise from
the summit.--The Crater.--Descent from the Mountain.--Effects of
Refraction.--Fatigue of the Ascent.

The ascent of Mount Etna has been described many times during the last
eighteen centuries, from Strabo in the second century to Dr. Baltzer in
1875. One of the most interesting accounts is certainly that of Brydone,
and in this century perhaps that of Mr. Gladstone. Of course the
interest of the expedition is greatly increased if it can be combined
with that spice of danger which is afforded by the fact of the mountain
being in a state of eruption at the time.

The best period for making the ascent is between May and September,
after the melting of the winter snows, and before the autumnal rains. In
winter snow frequently extends from the summit downwards for nine or
ten miles; the paths are obliterated, and the guides refuse to accompany
travellers. Even so late in the spring as May 29th Brydone had to
traverse seven miles of snow before reaching the summit. Moreover,
violent storms often rage in the upper regions of the mountain, and the
wind acquires a force which it is difficult to withstand, and is at the
same time piercingly cold. Sir William Hamilton, in relating his ascent
on the night of June 26th, 1769, remarks that, if they had not kindled a
fire at the halting place, and put on much warm clothing, they would
"surely have perished with the cold." At the same time the wind was so
violent that they had several times to throw themselves on their faces
to avoid being overthrown. Yet the guides said that the wind was not
unusually violent. Some writers, well used to Alpine climbing, have
asserted that the cold on Etna was more severe than anything they have
eve