ted, we started in a body--having first lit
our pipes. Outside the cave we found quite a crowd of people evidently
watching for our appearance, but when they saw us come out smoking they
vanished this way and that, calling out that we were great magicians.
Indeed, nothing about us created so great a sensation as our tobacco
smoke--not even our firearms.[*] After this we succeeded in reaching
a stream that had its source in a strong ground spring, and taking our
bath in peace, though some of the women, not excepting Ustane, showed a
decided inclination to follow us even there.

[*] We found tobacco growing in this country as it does in
every other part of Africa, and, although they were so
absolutely ignorant of its other blessed qualities, the
Amahagger use it habitually in the form of snuff and also
for medicinal purposes.--L. H. H.

By the time that we had finished this most refreshing bath the sun was
setting; indeed, when we got back to the big cave it had already set.
The cave itself was full of people gathered round fires--for several
more had now been lighted--and eating their evening meal by their lurid
light, and by that of various lamps which were set about or hung upon
the walls. These lamps were of a rude manufacture of baked earthenware,
and of all shapes, some of them graceful enough. The larger ones were
formed of big red earthenware pots, filled with clarified melted fat,
and having a reed wick stuck through a wooden disk which filled the top
of the pot. This sort of lamp required the most constant attention to
prevent its going out whenever the wick burnt down, as there were no
means of turning it up. The smaller hand lamps, however, which were also
made of baked clay, were fitted with wicks manufactured from the pith
of a palm-tree, or sometimes from the stem of a very handsome variety
of fern. This kind of wick was passed through a round hole at the end of
the lamp, to which a sharp piece of hard wood was attached wherewith to
pierce and draw it up whenever it showed signs of burning low.

For a while we sat down and watched this grim people eating their
evening meal in silence as grim as themselves, till at length, getting
tired of contemplating them and the huge moving shadows on the rocky
walls, I suggested to our new keeper that we should like to go to bed.

Without a word he rose, and, taking me politely by the hand, advanced
with a lamp to one of the small passages th