ement in which all engage, from children of ten to
grey-headed men of sixty, and as I had an opportunity of witnessing it
in perfection the day following, I shall describe it more minutely.

I suppose it was in honour of their guest that this grand swimming-match
was got up, for Romata came and told the captain that they were going to
engage in it, and begged him to "come and see."

"What sort of amusement is this surf-swimming?" I inquired of Bill as
we walked together to a part of the shore on which several thousands of
the natives were assembled.

"It's a very favourite lark with these 'xtr'or'nary critters," replied
Bill, giving a turn to the quid of tobacco that invariably bulged out of
his left cheek. "Ye see, Ralph, them fellows take to the water as soon
a'most as they can walk, an' long before they can do that anything
respectably, so that they are as much at home in the sea as on the land.
Well, ye see, I 'spose they found swimmin' for miles out to sea, and
divin' fathoms deep, wasn't excitin' enough, so they invented this game
o' swimmin' on the surf. Each man and boy, as you see, has got a short
board or plank, with which he swims out for a mile or more to sea, and
then, gettin' on the top o' yon thunderin' breaker, they come to shore
on the top of it, yellin' and screechin' like fiends. It's a marvel to
me that they're not dashed to shivers on the coral reef, for sure an'
sart'in am I that if any o' us tried it, we wouldn't be worth the fluke
of a broken anchor after the wave fell. But there they go!"

As he spoke, several hundreds of the natives, amongst whom we were now
standing, uttered a loud yell, rushed down the beach, plunged into the
surf, and were carried off by the seething foam of the retreating wave.

At the point where we stood, the encircling coral reef joined the shore,
so that the magnificent breakers, which a recent stiff breeze had
rendered larger than usual, fell in thunder at the feet of the
multitudes who lined the beach. For some time the swimmers continued to
strike out to sea, breasting over the swell like hundreds of black
seals. Then they all turned, and watching an approaching billow,
mounted its white crest, and each laying his breast on the short, flat
board, came rolling towards the shore, careering on the summit of the
mighty wave, while they and the onlookers shouted and yelled with
excitement. Just as the monster wave curled in solemn majesty to fling
its bulky le