s barks were utilized. Wild hemp, nettles, grasses,
and other like growths furnished much of the finer fibers. The hackling
was accomplished by means of the simplest devices, such as pounding
with hammers or sticks. The hair and sinews of animals were frequently
spun into threads and woven into cloth.
A few citations from early authors will indicate sufficiently for
present purposes the methods of spinning and weaving employed by tribes
which, if not in all cases mound-builders, were at least the neighbors
and relatives of the mound-building Indians.
CLOTHS.
The character of the woven articles is to a great extent indicated in
the extracts which follow. It evidently was not customary to weave
"piece" goods, but rather to make separate units of costumes,
furnishing, etc., for use without cutting, fitting, and sewing. Each
piece was practically complete when it came from the frame or loom. For
clothing and personal use there were mantles, shawls, and cloaks to be
worn over one or both shoulders or about the body as described by
Hariot, Smith, the Knight of Elvas, Du Pratz, and others; there were
skirts fastened about the waist and drawn with an inserted cord or
looped over a belt; there were belts, sashes, garters, shot pouches, and
bags. For household use there were hangings, covers for various
articles, and bedclothing; there were nets for fishing and cords for
angling. Some of these extracts describe the whole group of activities
included in the practice of the art as well as the use of the products.
I have considered it preferable to quote as a unit all that is said on
the subject by each author, giving cross reference, when necessary, in
discussing particular topics under other headings.
Weaving among the Indians of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, and the
northeast is described by Kalm, De la Potherie, and others. The
following extracts are from Kalm, and will serve to indicate the status
of the art over a wide area:
_Apocynum cannabinum_ was by the Swedes called Hemp of the
Indians; and grew plentifully in old corn grounds, in woods on
hills, and in high glades. The Swedes had given it the name of
Indian hemp, because the Indians formerly, and even now, apply
it to the same purposes as the Europeans do hemp; for the
stalk may be divided into filaments, and is easily prepared.
When the Indians were yet settled among the Swedes, in
Pensylvania and New Jersey, they made
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