o determine the degree of influence
it had on cookery in France. The restoration has introduced into
monarchy the representative forms friendly to epicurism, and in this
respect it is a true blessing--a new era opened _to those_ who are
hungry.

M. Jarrin's fourth edition contains upwards of 500 receipts in Italian
confectionery, with plates of improvements, &c. like a cyclopaedian
treatise on mechanics; and when our readers know there are "seven
essential degrees of boiling sugar," they will pardon the details of the
business of this volume. The "degrees" are--1. _Le lisse_, or thread,
large or small; 2. _Le perle_, or pearl, _le soufflet_, or blow; 4. _La
plume_, the feather; 5. _Le boulet_, the ball, large or small; 6. _Le
casse_, the crack; and, 7. the _caramel_. So complete is M. Jarrin's
system of confectionery, that he is "independent of every other artist;"
for he even explains engraving on steel and on wood. What a host of
disappointments this must prevent!

If we look further into, or "drink deep" of the art of confectionery,
we shall find it to be a perfect Microcosm--a little creation; for our
artist talks familiarly of "producing picturesque scenery, with trees,
lakes, rocks, &c.; gum paste, and modelling flowers, animals, figures,
&c." with astonishing mimic strife. We must abridge one of these
receipts for a "_Rock Piece Montee_ in a lake."

"Roll out confectionery paste, the size of the dish intended to receive
it; put into a mould representing your _pond_ a lining of almond paste,
coloured pale pink, and place in the centre a sort of pedestal of almond
paste, supported by lumps of the same paste baked; when dry put it into
the stove. Prepare _syrup_ to fill the hollow of the _lake_, to
represent the _water_; having previously modelled in gum paste little
_swans_, place them in various parts of the _syrup_; put it into the
stove for three hours, then make a small hole through the paste, under
your _lake_, to drain off the syrup; a crust will remain with the
_swans_ fixed in it, representing the _water_. Next build the _rock_ on
the pedestal with rock sugar, biscuits, and other appropriate articles
in sugar, fixed to one another, supported by the confectionery paste you
have put in the middle, the whole being cemented together with caramel,
and ornamented. The moulding and heads should then be pushed in almond
paste, coloured red; the _cascades_ and other ornaments must be _spun in
sugar_."

These ar