none at all.

The entire city was ancient, Spanish, Catholic, steeped in a religious
atmosphere and in what the average American Protestant would call
the superstitions of the dark ages. There were endless fiestas, and
processions and religious services, I saw them all and became much
interested in reading the history of the Catholic missions, established
so early out through what was then a wild and unexplored country. After
that, I listened with renewed interest to old Father de Fouri, who had
tended and led his flock of simple people so long and so lovingly.

There was a large painting of Our Lady of Guadaloupe over the
altar--these people firmly believed that she had appeared to them, on
the earth, and so strong was the influence around me that I began almost
to believe it too. I never missed the Sunday morning mass, and I fell in
easily with the religious observances.

I read and studied about the old explorers, and I seemed to live in
the time of Cortez and his brave band. I became acquainted with Adolf
Bandelier, who had lived for years in that country, engaged in research
for the American Archaeological Society. I visited the Indian pueblos,
those marvellous structures of adobe, where live entire tribes, and saw
natives who have not changed their manner of speech or dress since the
days when the Spaniards first penetrated to their curious dwellings,
three hundred or more years ago. I climbed the rickety ladders, by which
one enters these strange dwellings, and bought the great bowls which
these Indians shape in some manner without the assistance of a potter's
wheel, and then bake in their mud ovens.

The pueblo of Tesuque is only nine miles from Santa Fe, and a pleasant
drive, at that; it seemed strange to me that the road was not lined
with tourists. But no, they pass all these wonders by, in their
disinclination to go off the beaten track.

Visiting the pueblos gets to be a craze. Governor and Mrs. Prince knew
them all--the pueblo of Taos, of Santa Clara, San Juan, and others; and
the Governor's collection of great stone idols was a marvel indeed.
He kept them laid out on shelves, which resembled the bunks on a
great vessel, and in an apartment especially reserved for them, in his
residence at Santa Fe, and it was always with considerable awe that
I entered that apartment. The Governor occupied at that time a low,
rambling adobe house, on Palace Avenue, and this, with its thick walls
and low window-seats,