the cathedral, and a
little way back the large red roof of the new theatre. To the
right lie the new school building and the Plaza de Toros. Entering
more into the city one is surprised and pleased at the numerous
pretty parks that are scattered all through it. San Jose is called
the "Little Paris," as here you can see the Spanish beauties
dressed in the latest Parisian styles. Sunday afternoon is the
time when the senoritas take a promenade in the Parque Central,
where the music is playing and all is gay.

Let us leave the city life and people and look at the poor folks
of the country, who toil that all these city people may be
comfortable. The average country people can neither read nor
write, because until quite a recent date schools have not been
general. Although they cannot read or write, most of them have
very intelligent faces, and are well informed about their
position. The houses of these people are very mean structures,
built of only rough boards lapped over and nailed. The roof is of
sugar-cane leaves, or, at the best, tiles made out of mud and clay
baked. Inside the houses there are rarely more than two rooms,
neither of them having other floor than the bare ground. The
cooking range is only a platform covered with sand. There are
three stones to set the kettles on. The smoke wanders off through
the roof or door, for as a rule there are no windows. The
furniture is not very extensive, and consists of a table and one
or two "taburetes" (chairs covered with the skin of an ox).

In every house you enter you will find some corner or shelf
whereon is placed some image or saint. The picture of their patron
saint is hung on the wall. The house is as free to the chickens,
pigs, and dogs as to the people themselves. The pigs run around,
picking up what can be found to eat on the floor, and then crawl
away under the bed or table and sleep the sleep of the--pig.

The people are generally strong and healthy. Their food consists,
year in and year out, of rice and frijoles (black beans), and the
great Costa Rican bread called tortilla. A tortilla is dried
hulled corn ground on a stone and made into a sort of pancake,
which is laid amongst the ashes and baked. When one has learned to
eat it, it is very good. The people are not such thieves as