to be much displeased with
herself,--a circumstance for which I can only account by the absence of
looking-glasses in this village.

I did not feel much inclined to move after my long walk this day, so I
took a seat near the door of the hut, and watched the old lady turn my
tobacco into snuff. She first cut it up into little bits with an
assagy, and brought two large stones to the hut; into the lower stone,
which had a well-worn hollow, she put all the bits of tobacco, and with
the other, which was nearly circular, and about the size of an
ostrich-egg, she commenced grinding the tobacco: it seemed very hard
work, as she pressed heavily on the stone during the operation. After a
time she added some water, which made the mess into a sort of paste,
something like a child's dirt-pie. After a great deal of grinding and
scraping, the composition began really to look like a snuff-powder. She
then got a wooden spoon nearly full of white wood-ashes, and mixed them
with the tobacco. More grinding seemed to amalgamate the two
compositions, when she tried a pinch herself, and pronounced that it
wanted drying in the sun, and would then be good.

During the whole time that she was at work she was uttering disjointed
remarks to me, and at length proposed, in the most shameless and
barefaced manner, that I should marry her daughter. I requested to know
which of the damsels then present was the proposed bride, and was shown
a young lady about twelve years old, who had very much the appearance of
a picked Cochin-China fowl. I concealed my laughter, and told the old
lady that when this lassy became taller, and very fat, I might then
think more seriously of her proposition; but as at present I had not six
cows (the required price) handy, I could not entertain the subject. The
old lady told me she would get the skin and bone adorned with fat by the
time I came on another visit; and, for all I know, this black charmer
may be now waiting in disappointed plumpness. I stayed seven days at
this kraal: after the third day I had no bread or biscuit, but merely
roasted Indian corn and meat, with the _amasi_ and _ubisi_ (sour and
sweet milk). I therefore felt the want of bread, butter, and a bed, and
bidding my shooting companion farewell, I distributed beads and tobacco
to the women and some lucifers to the men, and then took my departure.

I should wish to testify to the manner in which I, a perfect stranger,
unknown by name or reputat