manders
of the fleete and officers that are sober men do cry out upon their bad
discipline, and the ruine that must follow it if it continue. But that
which I wonder most at, it seems their secretaries have been the most
exorbitant in their fees to all sorts of the people, that it is not to be
believed that they durst do it, so as it is believed they have got L800
apiece by the very vacancies in the fleete. He tells me that Lady
Castlemayne is concluded to be with child again; and that all the people
about the King do make no scruple of saying that the King do lie with Mrs.
Stewart, who, he says, is a most excellent-natured lady. This day the King
begins to put on his vest, and I did see several persons of the House of
Lords and Commons too, great courtiers, who are in it; being a long
cassocke close to the body, of black cloth, and pinked with white silke
under it, and a coat over it, and the legs ruffled with black riband like
a pigeon's leg; and, upon the whole, I wish the King may keep it, for it
is a very fine and handsome garment.

[Evelyn describes the new fashion as "a comely dress after ye
Persian mode" (see "Diary," October 18th, 1666). He adds that he
had described the "comelinesse and usefulnesse" of the Persian
clothing in his pamphlet entitled "Tyrannus, or the Mode." "I do
not impute to this discourse the change which soone happen'd, but
it was an identity I could not but take notice of." Rugge, in his
"Diurnal," thus describes the new Court costume "1666, Oct. 11. In
this month His Majestie and whole Court changed the fashion of their
clothes-viz. a close coat of cloth, pinkt with a white taffety under
the cutts. This in length reached the calf of the leg, and upon
that a sercoat cutt at the breast, which hung loose and shorter than
the vest six inches. The breeches the Spanish cut, and buskins some
of cloth, some of leather, but of the same colour as the vest or
garment; of never the like fashion since William the Conqueror." It
is represented in a portrait of Lord Arlington, by Sir P. Lely,
formerly belonging to Lord de Clifford, and engraved in Lodge's
"Portraits." Louis XIV. ordered his servants to wear the dress.
See November 22.]

Walking with Pierce in the Court of Wards out comes Sir W. Coventry, and
he and I talked of business. Among others I proposed the making Sir J.
Minnes a Commissioner, and