t reach the lake of Bouchet, where I meant to
camp, before sundown, and, to have even a hope of this, I must instantly
maltreat this uncomplaining animal. The sound of my own blows sickened
me. Once, when I looked at her, she had a faint resemblance to a lady of
my acquaintance who formerly loaded me with kindness; and this increased
my horror of my cruelty.

To make matters worse, we encountered another donkey, ranging at will
upon the roadside; and this other donkey chanced to be a gentleman. He
and Modestine met nickering for joy, and I had to separate the pair and
beat down their young romance with a renewed and feverish bastinado. If
the other donkey had had the heart of a male under his hide, he would
have fallen upon me tooth and hoof; and this was a kind of
consolation--he was plainly unworthy of Modestine's affection. But the
incident saddened me, as did everything that spoke of my donkey's sex.

It was blazing hot up the valley, windless, with vehement sun upon my
shoulders; and I had to labour so consistently with my stick that the
sweat ran into my eyes. Every five minutes, too, the pack, the basket,
and the pilot-coat would take an ugly slew to one side or the other; and
I had to stop Modestine, just when I had got her to a tolerable pace of
about two miles an hour, to tug, push, shoulder, and readjust the load.
And at last, in the village of Ussel, saddle and all, the whole
hypothec, turned round and grovelled in the dust below the donkey's
belly. She, none better pleased, incontinently drew up and seemed to
smile, and a party of one man, two women, and two children came up, and,
standing round me in a half circle, encouraged her by their example.

I had the devil's own trouble to get the thing righted; and the instant
I had done so, without hesitation, it toppled and fell down upon the
other side. Judge if I was hot! And yet not a hand was offered to assist
me. The man, indeed, told me I ought to have a package of a different
shape. I suggested, if he knew nothing better to the point in my
predicament, he might hold his tongue. And the good-natured dog agreed
with me smilingly. It was the most despicable fix. I must plainly
content myself with the pack for Modestine, and take the following items
for my own share of the portage: a cane, a quart flask, a pilot-jacket
heavily weighted in the pockets, two pounds of black bread, and an open
basket full of meats and bottles. I believe I may say I am not devoid