circle of low hills; and it was soaked and spongy to a degree approaching
absolute swampiness. As we were not allowed to go into the city, we
grudgingly sat still, and chanted our misery to the unresponsive
wilderness, getting our feet wet and gathering the frolicsome malaria germ
by way of interlude.

On the evening of our arrival a transport steamed into the bay, having on
board the First Kentucky Volunteers, who for some weeks afterward were
quartered in the town, doing provost duty and breaking hearts. Later on we
came to know them well; and, when they marched away to Ponce, we missed
them sadly. They had lots of money, and they spent it freely. We of the
regular brigade had not been paid for three months.

* * * * *

Mayaguez is a darling little city on the western coast of Puerto Rico,--a
place of lattices, balconies, and walled-in gardens ablaze with blossoms.
Behind it lies a semicircle of green hills, and before it is the laughing
sea. Columbus touched here in one of his earlier voyages, and historical
associations have been accumulating ever since.

It is the third largest town on the island, having a population of 25,000,
the majority of whom are white. The harbor is next best to that at
San Juan,--102 miles distant,--and is an open roadstead formed by two
projecting capes. It is a seaport of considerable commerce, and
exports sugar, coffee, oranges, pineapples, and cocoanuts in large
quantities,--principally, with the exception of coffee, to the United
States. Of industry not much can be said, save that there are three
manufactories of chocolate, solely for local consumption. The climate is
excellent, the temperature never exceeding 90 deg. F.

[Illustration: Part of the Village of Maricao.]

The city is connected by tramway with the neighboring town of Aguadilla,
and by railroad with Lares on one side and Hormigueros on the other. It
has a civil and military hospital, two asylums, a public library, three
bridges, a handsome market,--the best on the island, constructed entirely
of iron and stone, at a cost of 70,000 pesos,--a slaughter-house, a
theatre, a casino, and a number of societies of instruction, recreation,
and commerce. It also has a post-office and telegraph station; was founded
in 1760, and given the title of city in 1877.

A river called the Mayaguez divides the town into two parts, connected by
two pretty iron bridges named Marina and Guenar, respectively.