was glad to obtain from him very valuable and instructive information.
One hears accounts in some quarters of the Persian officials being
absolutely pro-Russian and showing incivility to British subjects, but on
the contrary the Amir positively went out of his way to show extreme
civility. He repeatedly inquired after my health and expressed his
fervent wishes that fever should no more attack me.

"What do you think of my beloved city, Sher-i-Nasrya?" he exclaimed. I
prudently answered that in my travels all over the world I had never seen
a city like it, which was quite true.

"But you look very young to have travelled so much?" queried the Amir.

"It is merely the great pleasure of coming to pay your Excellency a visit
that makes me look young!" I replied with my very best, temporarily
adopted, Persian manner, at which the Amir made a deep bow and placed his
hand upon his heart to show the full appreciation of the compliment.

He, too, like all Persian officials, displayed the keenest interest in
the Chinese war of 1900 and the eventual end of China. He spoke bitterly
of the recluse Buddhists of Tibet, and I fully endorsed his views. Then
again, he told me more of historical interest about his province, and of
the medical qualities of the Halmund water--which cures all evils. More
elaborate compliments flowed on all sides, and numberless cups of
steaming tea were gradually sipped.

Then we took our leave. As a most unusual courtesy, the Consul told me,
and one meant as a great honour, the Amir came to escort us and bid us
good-bye right up to the door,--the usual custom being that he rises, but
does not go beyond the table at which he sits.

Out we went again through the same narrow passages, stooping so as not to
knock our heads against the low door-way, and came to our horses. The
soldier on guard fired another salute with his gun, and Ghul-Khan, who
happened to be near at the time, nearly had his eye put out by it.

As we rode through the gate a number of prisoners--seven or eight--laden
with chains round the neck and wrists and all bound together, were being
led in. They salaamed us and implored for our protection, but we could do
nothing. I could not help feeling very sorry for the poor devils, for the
way justice is administered in Sistan, as in most parts of Persia, is not
particularly attractive. The tendons of the hands or feet are cut even
for small offences, hot irons are thrust into the criminal's l