that one
can look down from the pass upon the Kanjut monastery on the hillside
immediately above Yatung. The pass would afford an impregnable military
position to a people with the rudiments of science and martial spirit. A
few riflemen on the cliffs that command it might annihilate a column
with perfect safety, and escape into Bhutan before any flanking movement
could be made. Yet miles of straggling convoy are allowed to pass daily
with the supplies that are necessary for the existence of the force
ahead. The road to Phari Jong passes through two military walls. The
first at Yatung, six miles below the pass, is a senseless obstruction,
and any able-bodied Tommy with hobnailed boots might very easily kick it
down. It has no block-houses, and would be useless against a flank
attack. Before our advance to Chumbi the wall was inhabited by three
Chinese officials, a dingpon, or Tibetan sergeant, and twenty Tibetan
soldiers. It served as a barrier beyond which no British subject was
allowed to pass. The second wall lies across the valley at Gob-sorg,
four miles beyond our camp at Chumbi. It is roofed and loop-holed like
the Yatung barrier, and is defended by block-houses. This fortification
and every mile of valley between the Jelap and Gautsa might be held by a
single company against an invading force. Yet there are not half a dozen
Chinese or Tibetan soldiers in the valley. No opposition is expected
this side of the Tang la, but nondescript troops armed with matchlocks
and bows hover round the mission on the open plateau beyond. Our
evacuation of Khamba Jong and occupation of Chumbi were so rapid and
unexpected that it is thought the Tibetans had no time to bring troops
into the valley; but to anyone who knows their strategical incompetence,
no explanation is necessary.

Yatung is reached by one of the worst sections of road on the march; one
comes across a dead transport mule at almost every zigzag of the
descent. For ten years the village has enjoyed the distinction of being
the only place in Southern Tibet accessible to Europeans. Not that many
Europeans avail themselves of its accessibility, for it is a dreary
enough place to live in, shrouded as it is in cloud more than half the
year round, and embedded in a valley so deep and narrow that in
winter-time the sun has hardly risen above one cliff when it sinks
behind another. The privilege of access to Yatung was the result of the
agreement between Great Britain and Chi