acid, are partly turned into ether, or settle with the lees,
chrystallize, and adhere to the bottom of the casks. The etheric oil,
or aroma, remains, and develops into bouquet; also the tannin, to a
certain degree. The albumen and gluten principally settle, although a
small portion of them remains in the wine. The coloring matter and
extractive principle remain, but change somewhat by fermentation.

Thus it is the must containing a large amount of sugar needs a longer
time to become clear than that containing but a small portion of it;
therefore, many southern wines retain a certain amount of sugar
undecomposed, and they are called _sweet_, or liqueur wines; whereas,
wines in which the whole of the sugar has been decomposed are called
_sour_ or _dry_ wines.

I have thought it necessary to be thus explicit to give my readers an
insight into the general principles which should govern us in
wine-making. I have quoted freely from the excellent work of DR. GALL.
We will now see whether and how we can reduce it to practice. I will
try and illustrate this by an example.

NORMAL MUST.

"Experiments continued for a number of years have proved that, in
favorable seasons, grape juice contains, on the average, in 1,000 lbs.:

Sugar, 240 lbs.
Acids, 6 "
Water, 754 "
-----
1,000 "

This proportion would constitute what I call a normal must. But now we
have an inferior season, and the must contains, instead of the above
proportions, as follows:

Sugar, 150 lbs.
Acids, 9 "
Water, 841 "
-----
1,000 "

What must we do to bring such must to the condition of a normal must?
This is the question thus arising. To solve it, we calculate thus: If,
in six pounds of acids in a normal wine, 240 pounds of sugar appear,
how much sugar is wanted for nine pounds of acids? Answer, 360 pounds.
Our next question is: If, in six pounds of acids in a normal must, 754
pounds of water appear, how much water is required for nine pounds of
acids? Answer, 1,131 pounds. As, therefore, the must which we intend to
improve by neutralizing its acids, should contain 360 pounds of sugar,
nine pounds of acids, and 1,131 pounds of water, but contains already
150 pounds of sugar, 9 pounds of acids, and 841 pounds of water, there
remain to be added, 210 pounds of sugar, no acids, and 290 pounds of
water.

By ameliorating a quantity of 1,000 pounds must by 210 pounds sugar,
and 290 pounds water, we obtai