donkey, on which the owner, or driver, usually rides. Many
grindstones also are shipped from this country, one large stone
constituting a load for a camel. This land is, also a great grazing
region, and for more than three thousand years Bashan has been
celebrated for its fine breed of cattle.

Some distance south of Damascus I cross the headwaters of the Pharpar
River, whose clear, sparkling water Naaman considered much more
suitable for a general's bath than the muddy water of the Jordan. At my
place of crossing an athlete could clear the stream at a single bound.

The distant scenery deserves more than a passing notice, though but
little more can be given here. Off to the west, in plain view, is Mount
Hermon, whose towering, snow-capped summit in all probability looked
upon the transfigured person of the Son of Man. To the east is the
Lejah, in, or near which is Edrei, where Og, the giant king of Bashan,
was slain in the attempt to hold his realm against the home-seeking
Israelites under the leadership of Moses. South of the Lejah are the
Hauran Mountains, now occupied by the Druses, a people of a peculiar
religious faith--a faith which is a mixture of Mohammedan, Christian,
and Zoroastrian elements. One of their beliefs is that the number of
souls in existence never varies. "Accordingly, all the souls now in
life have lived in some human form since the creation, and will
continue to live till the final destruction of the world." To them
prayer is thought to be an unwarrantable interference with the
Almighty. They, having colonized this mountain, are at present causing
the Turkish government much trouble. They number about 90,000, and are
almost continuously at war with the neighboring Bedouin tribes. And
because of the feuds which prevail here, it is expected, and I believe
is a matter of law, that all visitors to this region must have an
escort either of soldiers or Bedouins. Were not robbery and bloodshed
so prevalent in the East-Jordan country, its ruins and scenery would
attract hundreds of tourists where now but a few ever suffer their
curiosity or interest in Bible lands to turn them aside from the beaten
paths of travel. In my course I pass through a portion of the land of
which we read in Deut. 3:3-5, noted for its many "rock cities." I look
upon the ruins of a number of these, but have little opportunity for a
close examination. The most noted ruins that I see are at Sunamein and
at Mezarib. But those who