en of China_. _Magnificence of the scenery of Western
China_. _The tea-shops_. _The Chinese coolie's thirst and how the author
drank_. _Population of Szech-wan_. _Minerals found_. _Salt and other
things_. _The Chinese inn: how it holds the palm for unmitigated filth_.
_Description of the rooms_. _Szech-wan and Yuen-nan caravanserais_. _Need
of a camp bed_. _Toileting in unsecluded publicity_. _How the author was
met at market towns_. _How the days do not get dull_.

In a manner admirably befitting my rank as an English traveler, apart
from the fact that I was the man who was endeavoring to cross China on
foot, I was led out of Chung-king _en route_ for Bhamo alone, my
companion having had to leave me here.

It was Easter Sunday, a crisp spring morning.

First came a public sedan-chair, bravely borne by three of the finest
fellows in all China, at the head of which on either side were two
uniformed persons called soldiers--incomprehensible to one who has no
knowledge of the interior, for they bore no marks whatever of the
military--whilst uniformed men also solemnly guarded the back. Then
came the grinning coolies, carrying that meager portion of my worldly
goods which I had anticipated would have been engulfed in the Yangtze.
And at the head of all, leading them on as captains do the Salvation
Army, was I myself, walking along triumphantly, undoubtedly looking a
person of weight, but somehow peculiarly unable to get out of my head
that little adage apropos the fact that when the blind shall lead the
blind both shall fall into a ditch! But Chinese decorum forbade my
falling behind. I had determined to walk across China, every inch of the
way or not at all; and the chair coolies, unaware of my intentions
presumably, thought it a great joke when at the western gate, through
which I departed, I gave instructions that one hundred cash be doled out
to each man for his graciousness in escorting me through the town.

All the people were in the middle of the streets--those slippery streets
of interminable steps--to give me at parting their blessings or their
curses, and only with difficulty and considerable shouting and pushing
could I sufficiently take their attention from the array of official and
civil servants who made up my caravan as to effect an exit.

The following were to be stages:--

1st day--Ts'eo-ma-k'ang 80 li.
2nd day--Uein-ch'uan hsien 120 "
3rd day--Li-shih-ch'ang