alf-pay officer that ever doffed his martial
appurtenances.

St. Helier may contain about 7,000 inhabitants. Internally it differs
little from the majority of small sea-ports in England, save it may be
in the predominance of foreign names on the signboards, and the groups
of French marketwomen, distinguished by their fantastic head-gear, who
perambulate the streets. The only place worthy of a visit is the market,
which, for orderly arrangement, and plenteous supply, is scarcely
excelled in any quarter of the world. It was occupied chiefly by Norman
women, who repair here regularly once a-week from Granville to dispose
of their fowls, fish, eggs, fruit, and vegetables. Most of them were
seated at their stalls, and industriously plying their needles, when
not occupied in serving customers. They had a mighty demure look, and
never condescended to solicit any person to deal with them--a mode of
behaviour which the butchers, fishmongers, fruiterers, and greengrocers,
of Great Britain would do well to imitate. The generality were
hard-featured; and their grotesque head-dresses, parti-coloured
kerchiefs, and short clumsily-plaited petticoats, gave them a grotesque,
antiquated air, altogether irreconcilable to an Englishman's taste.
They were, however, wonderfully clean, and civil and honourable in their
traffic, compared with the filthy, ribald, over-reaching hucksters who
infest our markets; and it was gratifying to hear that the Jersey people
encouraged their visits, and treated them with hospitality and respect.

The rock on which Elizabeth Castle is perched, is nearly a mile in
circuit, and accessible on foot at low water by means of a mole, formed
of loose stones and rubbish, absurdly termed "the Bridge," which
connects it with the mainland. In times of war with France, this
fortress was a post of great importance, and strongly garrisoned;
but in these piping days of peace, I found only one sentinel pacing his
"lonely round" on the ramparts. The barracks were desolate--the cannon
dismounted--and grass sufficient to have grazed a whole herd, had sprung
up in the courts, and among the pyramids of shot and shells piled up at
the embrazures. The gate stood open, inviting all who listed to enter,
and native or foreigner might institute what scrutiny he pleased without
interruption.

The hermitage of St. Elericus, the patron saint of Jersey, a holy man
who suffered martyrdom at the time the pagan Normans invaded the island,