ing. I asked the miller what was
meant by the monastery, and he told that it was the name of a building to
the north-east near the sea, which had once been a monastery but had been
converted into a farm-house, though it still retained its original name.
"May all monasteries be converted into farm-houses," said I, "and may
they still retain their original names in mockery of popery!"

Having seen all I could well see of the church and its precincts I
departed with my kind guide. After we had retraced our steps some way,
we came to some stepping-stones on the side of a wall, and the miller
pointing to them said:

"The nearest way to the house of Gronwy will be over the llamfa."

I was now become ashamed of keeping the worthy fellow from his business,
and begged him to return to his mill. He refused to leave me, at first,
but on my pressing him to do so, and on my telling him that I could find
the way to the house of Gronwy very well by myself, he consented. We
shook hands, the miller wished me luck, and betook himself to his mill,
whilst I crossed the llamfa. I soon, however, repented having left the
path by which I had come. I was presently in a maze of little fields
with stone walls over which I had to clamber. At last I got into a lane
with a stone wall on each side. A man came towards me and was about to
pass me--his look was averted, and he was evidently one of those who have
"no English." A Welshman of his description always averting his look
when he sees a stranger who he thinks has "no Welsh," lest the stranger
should ask him a question and he be obliged to confess that he has "no
English."

"Is this the way to Llanfair?" said I to the man. The man made a kind of
rush in order to get past me.

"Have you any Welsh?" I shouted as loud as I could bawl.

The man stopped, and turning a dark sullen countenance half upon me said,
"Yes, I have Welsh."

"Which is the way to Llanfair?" said I.

"Llanfair, Llanfair?" said the man, "what do you mean?"

"I want to get there," said I.

"Are you not there already?" said the fellow stamping on the ground, "are
you not in Llanfair?

"Yes, but I want to get to the town."

"Town, town! Oh, I have no English," said the man; and off he started
like a frighted bullock. The poor fellow was probably at first terrified
at seeing an Englishman, then confused at hearing an Englishman speak
Welsh, a language which the Welsh in general imagine no Englishman can
spea