ecline
the risk; and whilst detesting monkeys, we have a conscience. Yours
evidently has still to be awakened. But you may come and tell us your
experiences at the hotel later on--that is if you are still at large."

So the boy, taking his mother's arm, boldly mounted the steps, and with
a final happy nod, and flourishing a small packet of cayenne lozenges,
he disappeared beyond the curtain. How the lions would roar or the
monkeys receive the indignity remained to be seen. Ernesto was not
wanting in purpose and might be trusted to do his best.

We left the shows and the crowd for a moment, went round to the banks
of the river, and listened to the whispering reeds and rushes. What
repose; what a contrast to the glare and glitter and crowding of the
fair. Not a soul visible excepting the ferryman a little way up-stream,
waiting dejectedly in his boat for custom that would not come. The
rustling reeds harmonised musically with the quiet flow of the water as
it rippled and plashed on its way to the sea. To the left the plain
spread far and wide--a rich, productive country with much fair beauty
about it. Where we stood the river was broad and reflected the magic
outlines of the town, faint and subdued under the grey skies. Above the
music of the rushes we could hear the distant hum of the
pleasure-seekers, where everything was life and movement.

Presently passing the theatre, we saw "Faust" announced for that
evening. An operatic company had arrived from Barcelona. Wonders would
never cease. In this dull town, decaying remnant of Spain, there was an
Opera-house, and the tempter was to play off his wiles on beautiful
Margaret. What would the performance resemble?

"Quite a large house," said Joseph, "and a very fine one; the players
are often excellent."

Of course he judged from his own experience, which had never gone beyond
Tours; never dreamed of the great voices of the world. Who indeed could
dream of Titiens, never having heard of her? Or of Ilma di
Murska?--those stars in the world of song: not to mention Grisi and
Malibran the incomparable, of the far-gone days. Still, he spoke with
enthusiasm, and we felt we must hear this Faust and Marguerite.

"Take three tickets for to-night, Jose, and you shall point out all the
_elite_ of Gerona; the great, the good, the beautiful."

Joseph needed no second bidding. Diving through the doorway to the
office he returned with three excellent stalls. The performance was to