ea breeze we saw before us an
opening between two low mangrove covered points, which formed the mouth
of the river we were about to ascend. The scarcely ever ceasing
rollers, coming across the wide Atlantic, broke on the bar which ran
across its entrance with somewhat less violence than on the coast
itself. Still there was an ugly looking line of white foam which had to
be crossed before we could gain the smooth water within. We hove-to,
making the signal for a pilot. A canoe in a short time came off, having
on board a burly negro, dressed in a broad brimmed hat, nankeen
trousers, and white jacket, with a sash round his waist. He produced
several documents to show that he was capable of taking a vessel over
the bar.

"Wait bit captain," he said, "high water soon, and den ship go in
smooth--batten down hatches though, case sea break aboard."

Captain Willis followed this advice; it was well that he did so. "Up
helm now captain--bar berry good--plenty breeze." We stood on with all
canvas set; the hands at their stations ready to shorten sail when
necessary. Soon we found ourselves mounting to the top of a high
roller, then on we glided, till in another instant down we came amid the
hissing roaring breakers, their foam-topped summits dancing up on either
side, and deluging our decks. I saw our black pilot holding on pretty
tightly by the main shrouds--I followed his example, for I expected
every moment to feel the vessel's keel touching the bar, when I knew
that if she were to hang there even for the shortest possible time, the
following sea might break over her stem, and make a clean sweep of her
deck. On she sped though, lifted by another huge roller; downwards we
then glided amid the eddying creamy waters on to the calm surface of the
river, up which the next minute we were gliding rapidly.

The appearance of the banks on either side was not attractive. As far
as the eye could reach was one dense jungle of mangrove bushes, and
though we ran on for several miles it in no way improved. The wind died
away as we advanced, and the atmosphere became hot and oppressive. I
had expected to see pleasant openings, with neat cottages, plantations
of maize, rice, and other grain, pepper, palms and palmetos; but
instead, a uniform line of the sombre tinted mangrove alone presented
itself, the trees just too high to prevent our having a view over them
of any more attractive scenery which might have existed beyond.

I