by extensive
gardens and shrubberies; but these are not numerous, and they are
so far removed from the heart of the town, as to be in great
measure beyond the influence of its smoke and other nuisances.
During our sojourn in this place we received the most hospitable
attention from several persons of the first distinction. Balls
and other entertainments were given, at which all the beauty and
fashion in this part of the island attended; and for some days I
had little leisure or inclination for any other pursuit than the
enjoyment of civilized pleasure, a pursuit which, from long
disuse, possessed more than ordinary zest. But at length having
seen as much of Kingston and its vicinity as, I desired to see, I
determined to take advantage of the opportunity which fortune had
placed within my reach, and to make an excursion into the heart
of the Blue Mountains. To this I was additionally induced by an
invitation from an old friend to visit him at Annotto bay; and
as, along with his letter, he sent a horse for my own conveyance,
and a mule for the conveyance of my baggage, no difficulty
respecting a mode of being transported stood in the way to
obstruct my design.
Having made up my mind to this journey, I waited, till sunset on
the 9th, when, starting in the cool of the evening, I reached a
little tavern called the Plum Tree, about half an hour after dark.
My ride carried me through an open and fertile country covered
with sugar-canes, coffee, and such other plants as are cultivated
in the low grounds of Jamaica. It was a short one, not more than
twelve miles in extent, but I was forced to halt where I did,
because I had gained the foot of the mountains; and if I had
passed the Plum Tree, well known as a sort of half-way house on
such tours, I might have travelled all night without finding any
place of accommodation.
As darkness set in, one of the, beautiful peculiarities of a
tropical climate, which I had not previously witnessed, came
under my observation. The air was filled with fire-flies, which,
emitting a phosphoric light something similar to the light of
the glow-worm, only more red and brilliant, danced around me like
sparks from a smith's anvil when he is beating a bar of red-hot
iron. These creatures flutter about with a humming noise, and
frequently settle in large swarms upon branches of trees, giving
them the semblance of so many pieces of timber taken newly out of
a fire. When viewed by daylight t
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