, and the roofs thatched with leaves. Though thus
extremely slight, these edifices are abundantly sufficient for a
climate where rain is considered as a prodigy, and is not seen in many
years: Insomuch that, a small quantity of rain falling in the year
1728, is said to have ruined a great number of buildings, which
mouldered away, and melted as it were before it. The inhabitants are
chiefly Indians and black slaves, or of mixed breed, the whites
being very few. The port of Payta, though little more than a bay,
is reckoned the best on this coast, and is indeed a very secure and
commodious anchorage, and is frequented by all vessels coming from the
north, as here only the ships from Acapulco, Sonsonnate, Realejo,
and Panama, can touch and refresh in their passage to Callao; and the
length of these voyages, the wind for the greatest part of the year
being full against them, renders it indispensably necessary for them
to call in here for a recruit of fresh water. Payta itself, however,
is situated in so parched a spot, that it does not furnish a drop
of fresh water, neither any kind of vegetables or other provisions,
except fish and a few goats. But, from an Indian town named Colan, two
or three leagues to the northward, water, maize, vegetables, fowls,
and other provisions, are conveyed to Payta on _balsas_ or floats,
for the supply of ships which touch there; and cattle are sometimes
brought from Piura, a town about thirty miles up the country. The
water brought from Colan is whitish and of a disagreeable appearance,
but is said to be very wholesome; for it is pretended by the
inhabitants that it runs through large tracks overgrown with
sarsaparilla, with which it is sensibly impregnated. Besides
furnishing the trading ships bound from the north for Callao with
water and other necessary refreshments this port of Payta is the
usual place where passengers from Acapulco and Panama, bound to Lima,
disembark; as the voyage from hence to Callao, the port of Lima, is
two hundred leagues, and is extremely tedious and fatiguing, owing to
the wind being almost always contrary; whereas there is a tolerably
good road by land, running nearly parallel to the coast, with many
stations and villages for the accommodation of travellers.

Payta is merely an open town, unprovided with any defence, except
a small fort or redoubt near the shore of the bay. It was of much
consequence to us to be well informed of the fabric and strength of
this