get about threepence a day, and find their
own provisions. Each man had a strong wooden "betel" box, on which he
generally sat, a sleeping-mat, and a change of clothes--rowing naked,
with only a sarong or a waistcloth. They sleep in their places, covered
with their mat, which keeps out the rain pretty well. They chew betel
or smoke cigarettes incessantly; eat dry sago and a little salt fish;
seldom sing while rowing, except when excited and wanting to reach a
stopping-place, and do not talk a great deal. They are mostly Malays,
with a sprinkling of Alfuros from Gilolo, and Papuans from Guebe or
Waigiou.
One afternoon we stayed at Makian; many of the men went on shore, and
a great deal of plantains, bananas, and other fruits were brought on
board. We then went on a little way, and in the evening anchored again.
When going to bed for the night, I put out my candle, there being still
a glimmering lamp burning, and, missing my handkerchief, thought I saw
it on a box which formed one side of my bed, and put out my hand to take
it. I quickly drew back on feeling something cool and very smooth, which
moved as I touched it. "Bring the light, quick," I cried; "here's a
snake." And there he was, sure enough, nicely coiled up, with his head
just raised to inquire who had disturbed him. It was mow necessary
to catch or kill him neatly, or he would escape among the piles of
miscellaneous luggage, and we should hardly sleep comfortably. One of
the ex-convicts volunteered to catch him with his hand wrapped up in a
cloth, but from the way he went about it I saw he was nervous and would
let the thing go, so I would mot allow him to make the attempt. I them
got a chopping-knife, and carefully moving my insect nets, which hung
just over the snake and prevented me getting a free blow, I cut him
quietly across the back, holding him down while my boy with another
knife crushed his head. On examination, I found he had large poison
fangs, and it is a wonder he did not bite me when I first touched him.
Thinking it very unlikely that two snakes had got on board at the same
time, I turned in and went to sleep; but having all the time a vague
dreamy idea that I might put my hand on another one, I lay wonderfully
still, not turning over once all night, quite the reverse of my usual
habits. The next day we reached Ternate, and I ensconced myself in my
comfortable house, to examine all my treasures, and pack them securely
for the voyage home.
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