nts because the charm lies in
the after-taste. The water is so cool and refreshing after the
fieriness; it gives, without the gasconnade, the emotion Keats
experienced when he peppered his mouth with cayenne for the greater
enjoyment of iced claret.

But the men wiped their mouths with their hands and came out of the wine
shop, mounting their horses which stood outside--shaggy, long-haired
beasts with high saddles and great box-stirrups. They rode slowly
through the gate one after the other, in the easy slouching way of men
who have been used to the saddle all their lives and in the course of
the week are accustomed to go a good many miles in an easy jog-trot to
and from the town. It seems to me that the Spaniards resolve themselves
into types more distinctly than is usual in northern countries, while
between individuals there is less difference. These three, clean-shaven
and uniformly dressed, of middle size, stout, with heavy strong features
and small eyes, certainly resembled one another very strikingly. They
were the typical inn-keepers of Goya's pictures but obviously could not
all keep inns; doubtless they were farmers, horse-dealers, or
forage-merchants, shrewd men of business, with keen eyes for the main
chance. That class is the most trustworthy in Spain, kind, hospitable,
and honest; they are old-fashioned people with many antique customs, and
preserve much of the courteous dignity which made their fathers famous.

A string of grey donkeys came along the bridge, their panniers
earth-laden, poor miserable things that plodded slowly and painfully,
with heads bent down, placing one foot before the other with the
donkey's peculiar motion, patiently doing a thing they had patiently
done ever since they could bear a load. They seemed to have a dull
feeling that it was no use to make a fuss, or to complain; it would just
go on till they dropped down dead and their carcases were sold for
leather and glue. There was a Spanish note in the red trappings, braided
and betasselled, but all worn, discoloured and stained.

Inside the gate they stopped, waiting in a huddled group, with the same
heavy patience, for the examination of the _consumo_. An officer of the
custom-house went round with a long steel prong, which he ran into the
baskets one by one, to see that there was nothing dutiable hidden in the
earth. Then, sparing of his words, he made a sign to the driver and sat
down again straddle-wise on his chair. '_Arre, b