he
next day for Swaneti to overawe the subjects of the late Prince
(he was shot at Kutais for stabbing Prince Gagarin, the
predecessor of Prince Eristaw), who do not seem to have realised
his death. The Prince takes two battalions of infantry and two
guns nominally as an escort. There are some very pretty ladies at
Kutais who dance their national dances capitally. They dance
alone, and all the gentlemen beat time with their hands. I was
surprised at seeing the ladies wear a sort of bracelet of black
beads, to which they attached great value. I am sure they are
nothing more than bog oak.... I have since discovered they are
_cannel coal, not bog oak_. The ladies are very pretty, but have
not very cleanly habits in general; they prefer their nails
tipped, and do not hesitate at taking a bone and gnawing it. They
live in extremely dirty houses, or rather huts. They are
generally all princesses, and the men all princes, who, however,
do not hesitate to accept small donations. I am always in fear
and trembling lest they should give me anything, as it is
necessary to give in return. I, unfortunately, happened to notice
a certain glass letterweight with the Queen on it, and observed
that it was like Her Majesty. I was given it on the spot, and
with deep regret had to part with my soda-water machine the next
day. I admire nothing now, you may be sure. The servants of
Prince Dimitri Gouriel have made a good thing out of my visit,
for each time they bring anything--butter, fruit, etc.--orders
are given that an equivalent be given them in money. My hands get
quite sticky with shaking hands with so many princes, but I have
hitherto borne up like a martyr under my trials. On being invited
to the house of a prince, you would figure yourself invited to a
palace; but it is not the case here, and you would find it out to
your cost if you did not take something to eat in your pockets."

The work of this Commission proved exceedingly fatiguing--Gordon
breaking in characteristically with the statement: "I do not complain
when there is no occasion"--and consisted chiefly in replacing the
pyramids carefully removed by the population during the twelve months
since they were erected. The successful result of this Commission was
entirely due to Gordon's energy and untiring labour. His Russian and