of kindergarten
classification. The ridiculous idea prevailing that one must not eat
until others are served has passed away with many old-time fallacies.
One commences to eat as soon as served. You need not proceed very
actively, but you can take up your fork or spoon, as the case may be,
and make at least a feint at it.
Toasts have also fallen into "desuetude" at private dinners. Sometimes
you will find an old-fashioned host who will, on touching his glass with
his lips, bow to his guests, and they may wait for this signal to sip
their wine, but the custom is utterly obsolete in large cities and at
formal dinners.
When you have finished the course, lay your knife and fork side by side
on your plate, the prongs of the fork upward. Do not cross them. No
whistlike signals are needed to-day to signify that you have had
sufficient to eat.
Dinners are generally served _a la Russe_--that is, from the sideboard,
and the dishes are passed around by the servants on silver trays. Very
large _plats_, such as roasts and fish, are sometimes carried without
the trays. On all occasions of ceremony the men servants are gloved.
Carving at table is but little seen except at very informal dinners and
in the country, where sometimes the master of the house shows off this
old-fashioned accomplishment, especially if he has a dining room in
colonial style and wishes to have everything in keeping.
The question of second helpings is therefore not one of moment. The
servants pass the viands twice or more around. If a host or hostess
serves at table, he or she will ask the guests whether they would like a
second helping. It is never demanded. Except when absolutely necessary
the handkerchief should be kept out of sight. It can be used in case
there should be some sudden irritation of the skin, but to blow one's
nose at table is disgusting.
The American bachelor takes usually a very light first meal. It consists
of tea, coffee, or cocoa, toast, eggs, oatmeal, and fruit. There are yet
a few men who go in for the old-fashioned hearty breakfast with
beefsteak, buckwheat cakes, and trimmings, but in cities the lighter
meal is preferable. All this is, of course, more a matter of environment
and hygiene than etiquette. I have compiled a list of certain viands,
which society does require should be eaten at a special meal and in only
one manner. With this catalogue I will close this chapter.
BREAKFAST AND LUNCHEON DISHES.
_Eggs._--It
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