n every respect. It
is much more thoroughly Oriental in appearance, in its mysteries, in the
look and character of its inhabitants. The spirit of the Arabian Nights
is quite alive in these, its native streets; and not only do you hear
their fantastic tales repeated to rapt audiences in the coffee-houses,
but you see them hourly exemplified in living scenes. This is probably
the most ancient city in the world. Eleazar, the trusty steward of
Abraham, was a citizen of it nearly 4,000 years ago, and the Arabs
maintain that Adam was created here out of the red clay that is now
fashioned by the potter into other forms.

The Christians for the most part belong to the Latin Church. There are
some Greeks, and a few Armenians. The Christians are as fanatical and
grossly ignorant as the Moslems; at least, those few, even of the
wealthier class, with whom I had the opportunity of conversing.

CHARLES WATERTON

Wanderings in South America

_I.--First Journey_

Charles Waterton, who was born on June 3, 1782, and who
died on May 27, 1865, was a native of Yorkshire, England.
Brought up in a family loving country life and field
sports, he early learned to cultivate the study of natural
history. Speaking of himself in after life he said, "I
cannot boast of any great strength of arm, but my legs,
probably by much walking, and by frequently ascending
trees, have acquired vast muscular power; so that, on
taking a view of me from top to toe, you would say that
the 'upper part of Tithonus has been placed on the lower
part of Ajax.'" Educated at Tudhoe Catholic School,
Waterton became a sound Latin scholar. He proceeded to the
Jesuit College at Stonyhurst, where his tutors as far as
possible encouraged his love for natural history, at the
same time stimulating his taste for literature.
Fox-hunting was his delight and he became a famous rider.
His parents wished him to see the world, and his travels
began with a tour in Spain, visiting London on the way
back to Yorkshire and there making the acquaintance of Sir
Joseph Banks, President of the Royal Society and
scientific Maecenas of his age. In 1804 he sailed for
Demerara, there to administer the estates of his paternal
uncle, and, liking the country, managed that business till
1812, coming home at intervals. Subsequently, Waterton
undertook arduous and adventurous journeys in Guiana,
simply as a naturalist. His accounts of hi