ago on the lake and Isser Jang on the Montgomery road is one of
degree only, and not of kind. As far as the understanding of the uses of
life goes Isser Jang, for all its seasonal cholera, has the advantage
over Chicago. Jowala Singh knows and takes care to avoid the three or
four ghoul-haunted fields on the outskirts of the village; but he is not
urged by millions of devils to run about all day in the sun and swear
that his ploughshares are the best in the Punjab; nor does Puran Dass
fly forth in a cart more than once or twice a year, and he knows, on a
pinch, how to use the railway and the telegraph as well as any son of
Israel in Chicago. But this is absurd. The East is not the West, and
these men must continue to deal with the machinery of life, and to call
it progress. Their very preachers dare not rebuke them. They gloss over
the hunting for money and the twice-sharpened bitterness of Adam's curse
by saying that such things dower a man with a larger range of thoughts
and higher aspirations. They do not say: "Free yourself from your own
slavery," but rather, "If you can possibly manage it, do not set quite
so much store on the things of this world." And they do not know what
the things of this world are.

I went off to see cattle killed by way of clearing my head, which, as
you will perceive, was getting muddled. They say every Englishman goes
to the Chicago stockyards. You shall find them about six miles from the
city; and once having seen them will never forget the sight. As far as
the eye can reach stretches a township of cattle-pens, cunningly divided
into blocks so that the animals of any pen can be speedily driven out
close to an inclined timber path which leads to an elevated covered way
straddling high above the pens. These viaducts are two-storied. On the
upper storey tramp the doomed cattle, stolidly for the most part. On the
lower, with a scuffling of sharp hooves and multitudinous yells, run the
pigs. The same end is appointed for each. Thus you will see the gangs of
cattle waiting their turn--as they wait sometimes for days; and they
need not be distressed by the sight of their fellows running about in
the fear of death. All they know is that a man on horseback causes their
next-door neighbours to move by means of a whip. Certain bars and
fences are unshipped, and, behold, that crowd have gone up the mouth of
a sloping tunnel and return no more. It is different with the pigs. They
shriek back the news o