uez, Murillo, and Zurburan
were born and flourished in Seville. In modern times she has taken a
prominent part in political events. She led in the patriotic war to
drive out the armies of Napoleon, and she seems to have been on both
sides in the struggle for liberal and absolutist principles, the
establishment of the brief republic of 1868, and the restoration of the
present monarchy.

Through all the many changes from better to Worse, from richer to
poorer, Seville continued faithful to the ideal of religious unity which
the wise Isabel and the shrewd Ferdinand divined was the only means of
consolidating the intensely provincial kingdoms of Spain into one nation
of Spaniards. Andalusia not being Gothic had never been Aryan, and
it was one of her kings who carried his orthodoxy to Castile and
established it inexpugnably at Toledo after he succeeded his heretical
father there. When four or five hundred years later it became a
political necessity of the Catholic Kings to expel their Jewish and
Moorish subjects and convert their wealth to pious and patriotic uses,
Andalusia was one of the most zealous provinces in the cause. When
presently the inquisitions of the Holy Office began, some five hundred
heretics were burned alive at Seville before the year was out; many
others, who were dead and buried, paid the penalty of their heresy
in effigy; in all more than two thousand suffered in the region round
about. Before he was in Valladolid, Torquemada was in Seville, and there
he drew up the rules that governed the procedure of the Inquisition
throughout Spain. A magnificent _quemadero,_ or crematory, second only
to that of Madrid, was built: a square stone platform where almost every
day the smoke of human sacrifice ascended. This crematory for the living
was in the meadow of San Sebastian, now a part of the city park system
which we left on the right that first evening when we drove to the
Delicias. I do not know why I should now regret not having visited the
place of this dreadful altar and offered my unavailing pity there to
the memory of those scores of thousands of hapless martyrs who suffered
there to no end, not even to the end of confirming Spain in the faith
one and indivisible, for there are now, after so many generations of
torment, two Protestant churches in Seville. For one thing I did not
know where the place of the _quemadero_ was; and I do not yet know where
those Protestant churches are.

II

[Illustra