o the Citadel, where His Royal Highness lived during his stay.
From the Place des Armes the profile of the town pushes back along the
heights to the peak on which is the Citadel, a squat and massive
structure that seems to have grown rather than to have been built from
the living rock upon which it is based.
Between the Citadel and the Place des Armes there is a long, grey stone
wall above the green glacis of the cliff. It has the look of a
military wall, and it is not a military wall. It supports merely a
superb promenade, Dufferin Terrace, a great plank walk poised sheer
above the river, the like of which would be hard to equal anywhere. On
this the homely people of Quebec take the air in a manner more
sumptuous than many of the most aristocratic resorts in Europe.
At the eastern end of this terrace, and forming the wing of the Place
des Armes, is the medieval structure of the Chateau Frontenac, a
building not really more antique than the area of hotels _de luxe_, of
which it is an extremely fine example, but so planned by its designers
as to fit delightfully into the antique texture of the town.
Below and shelving away eastward again is the congested old town,
through which the Prince had come, and behind Citadel and promenade,
and stretching over the plateau of the cape, is a town of broad and
comely streets, many trees and great parks as modern as anything in
Canada.
That night the big Dufferin Terrace was thronged by people out to see
the firework display from the Citadel, and to watch the illuminations
of the city and of the ships down on the calm surface of the water. It
was rather an unexpected crowd. There were the sexes by the thousands
packed together on that big esplanade, listening to the band, looking
at the fireworks and lights, the whole town was there in a holiday
mood, and there was not the slightest hint of horseplay or disorder.
The crowd enjoyed itself calmly and gracefully; there were none of
those syncopated sounds or movements which in an English crowd show
that youth is being served with pleasure. The quiet enjoyment of this
good-tempered and vivacious throng is the marked attitude of such
Canadian gatherings. I saw in other towns big crowds gathered at the
dances held in the street to celebrate the Prince's visit. Although
thousands of people of all grades and tempers came together to dance or
to watch the dancing, there was never the slightest sign of rowdyism or
disorder.
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