oat, a shabby concern, decorated with
yellow flags, arrived, and at eight the letters were borne away under
a salute. Thus we had a second time the satisfaction of getting rid
of the mob at an early hour.

"_25th._--At 9 1/2 A.M. I started with Williamson in the gig, with
the long-boat in company, carrying the presents. On approaching the
town, before the ebb had run long, it appeared to be a very Venice of
hovels, a river Cybele rising from the water. For those who like it,
the locality is not ill chosen. The hills recede from the river, and
form an amphitheatre; and several other rivers or streams flowing in,
cause a muddy deposit, on which the houses are built. At high water
they are surrounded; at low water stand on a sheet of mud. On nearing
it, we were encompassed by boats which preceded and followed us,
and we passed the floating market, where women, wearing immense hats
of palm-leaves, sell all sorts of edibles, balanced in their little
canoes, now giving a paddle, now making a bargain, and dropping down
with the tide, and again regaining their place when the bargain is
finished. The first impression of the town is miserable. The houses
are crowded and numerous, and even the palace does not present a
more captivating aspect, for, though large, it is as incommodious
as the worst. Our presentation was exactly similar to that of
our first meeting with Muda Hassim at Sarawak, only the crowd was
much greater. We had been seated but a few minutes when Pangeran
Usop arrived, and directly afterward the sultan. He gave us tea,
leaf-cigars, and sirih, and, in short, showed us every attention;
and what was best of all did not keep us very long. Our apartment
was partitioned off from the public hall, a dark-looking place,
but furnished with a table brought by us, and three rickety chairs,
beside matresses and plenty of mats. We were kept up nearly all night,
which, after the fatigues of the day, was hard upon us.

"Further observation confirmed us in the opinion that the town
itself is miserable, and its locality on the mud fitted only for
frogs or natives; but there is a level dry plain above the entrance
of the Kiangi river, admirably suited for a European settlement; and
across the Kiangi is swelling ground, where the residents might find
delightful spots for their country-houses. The greatest annoyance to
a stranger is the noisome smell of the mud when uncovered; and all
plated or silver articles, even in the course o