e should be made, for letting it out, if needful, at this
seam. The lining of the fore-body must be biased.
The linings for the waists of dresses should be stiffened cotton or
linen. In cutting bias-pieces, for trimming, they will not set well,
unless they are exact. In cutting them, use a long rule, and a lead
pencil or piece of chalk. Welting-cords should be covered with
bias-pieces; and it saves time, in many cases, to baste on the
welting-cord, at the same time that you cover it. The best way to put on
hooks and eyes, is to sew them on double broad tape, and then sew this
on the frock-lining. They can then be moved easily, and do not show
where they are sewed on.
In cutting a sleeve, double it biased. The skirts of dresses look badly,
if not full; and in putting on lining, at the bottom, be careful to have
it a very little fuller than the dress, or it will shrink, and look
badly. All thin silks look much better with lining, and last much
longer, as do aprons, also. In putting a lining to a dress, baste it on
each separate breadth, and sew it in at the seams, and it looks much
better than to have it fastened only at the bottom. Make notches in
selvedge, to prevent it from drawing up the breadth. Dresses, which are
to be washed, should not be lined.
Figured silks do not generally wear well, if the figure be large and
satin-like. Black and plain-colored silks can be tested, by procuring
samples, and making creases in them; fold the creases in a bunch, and
rub them against a rough surface, of moreen or carpeting. Those which
are poor, will soon wear off, at the creases. Plaids look becoming, for
tall women, as they shorten the appearance of the figure. Stripes look
becoming, on a large person, as they reduce the apparent size. Pale
persons should not wear blue or green, and brunettes should not wear
light delicate colors, except shades of buff, fawn, or straw color.
Pearl white is not good for any complexion. Dead white and black look
becoming on almost all persons. It is best to try colors, by
candle-light, for evening dresses; as some colors, which look very
handsome in the daylight, are very homely when seen by candle-light.
Never cut a dress low in the neck, as this shows that a woman is not
properly instructed in the rules of modesty and decorum, or that she has
not sense enough to regard them. Never be in haste to be first in a
fashion, and never go to the extremes.
In buying linen, seek for that which has
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