d painters were busily at work, painting and
furbishing up the ornaments; but the scene brought forcibly to the minds
of the travellers the preparations for a new play at a theatre. The
monk told them that the large church was so cold in winter that it was
shut up, and that there was a small one, well warmed with stoves, where
they could at that season worship in comfort. He then led them through
the burial-ground, which they found crowded with the tombs of noble
families, and other inhabitants of Moscow and its neighbourhood. This
is the most fashionable burying-place of that part of Russia, and
consequently people are very anxious to have the remains of their
friends placed there, so that, though they could not enjoy good company
when they were alive, they might at all events after their death have
such satisfaction as it might afford.
The ground was laid out with walks; the tombstones were of every
possible strange device, and crowded together in a way which would have
been far from pleasing to some of the more aristocratic inhabitants in
their lifetime; but the monkish sexton in his own graveyard read the
lesson to visitors, often uttered before, that death is a leveller of
all ranks, and no respecter of persons.
When the travellers thanked the young moppy-haired monk for his
attention, he replied that it was his duty, as it was his pleasure, to
show his convent, and seemed in no way to expect any remuneration. The
Imperial family, it is said, have no affection for the monkish orders;
indeed, the feeling of dislike is mutual. They predicted the overthrow
of the Russian armies in the Crimea, and the death of the Emperor--the
wish probably being the father of the prophecy.
In their way through the city the travellers entered an Armenian church.
It was ornamented with pictures of saints, like those of a Roman
Catholic place of worship; but the pulpit was in a conspicuous place, as
if preaching was not altogether neglected; and there were chairs inside
the altar railings for the Patriarch and other ecclesiastical
functionaries.
The style of ornaments about the church showed that the Armenian
community were either not wealthy or not disposed to spend much money on
the edifice. It, however, spoke of a purer faith than that of the Greek
Church.
After dining, our friends set out, and drove along the high road to
Saint Petersburg, towards the Petrofsky Palace. Every part of the way,
from the Kremlin to the
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