this phenomenon the faint glimmer of Lobos Light was descried
flickering on the horizon, two points on the weather bow. I changed the
course three points to windward, having determined to touch at the small
Cay where the lighthouse stands; one point being allowed for leeway,
which I found was not too much.

Three hours later we fetched in under the lee of the reef, or Cay, as it
is commonly called, and came to in one and a half fathoms of water in
good shelter.

We beheld then overhead in wonderful beauty what had awed us from the
distance in the early night--a chart of the illuminating banks marked
visibly on the heavens.

We furled sails and, setting a light in the rigging, turned in; for it
lacked three hours yet of daylight. And what an interesting experience
ours had been in the one short night! By the break of day my crew were
again astir, preparing to land and fill water at a good landing which we
now perceived farther around the point to leeward, where the surf was
moderate.

On the Cay is stored some hundred thousand gallons of rain water in
cisterns at the base of the iron tower which carries the light; one that
we saw from the canoe at a distance of fourteen miles.

The keeper of the light, a hardy native of Nassau, when he discovered
the new arrival at his "island," hoisted the British Board of Trade flag
on a pole in the centre of this, his little world, then he came forward
to speak us, thinking at first, he said, that we were shipwrecked
sailors, which indeed we were, but not in distress, as he had supposed
when hoisting the flag, which signified assistance for distressed
seamen. On learning our story, however, he regarded us with grave
suspicions, and refused water to Victor, who had already landed with
buckets, telling him that the captain would have to bring his papers
ashore and report. The mate's report would not be taken. Thus in a
moment was transformed the friend in need to _governor of an island_.
This amused me greatly, and I sent back word to my veritable Sancho
Panza that in my many voyages to islands my mate had attended to the
customs reports; at which his Excellency chafed considerably, giving the
gunnels of his trousers a fitful tug up now and then as he paced the
beach, waiting my compliance with the rules of the island. The governor,
I perceived, was suspicious of smugglers and wreckers, apparently
understanding their ways, if, indeed, even he were not a reformed
pirate himself.