been turned to the largest diameter, the stick is
held in the position of the rule while measuring and the points are
forced against the revolving cylinder, thus scoring it. This stick can
be used as many times as the model is to be made and the measurements
will always be the same.

To avoid dissimilar curves it is well to cut out a full sized templet of
the model to be made. This templet can be made of any thin, stiff
material, preferably light sheet iron. In some cases it will be
necessary to make the templet in several pieces in order to help
facilitate the tool operations.

The use of this templet will not only be a help to getting all curved
surfaces the same, but will also check up on the various new diameters
on the model. The cylinder should never be in motion while the templet
is being used.

CHAPTER VIII

FINISHING AND POLISHING

To get a high and lasting polish on wood, the work must be first sanded
so as to be perfectly smooth. In addition to this, open grained wood,
such as oak, must be properly filled with a wood filler. If properly
sharpened tools have been used very little sanding is required, and then
worn sandpaper should be used as it does not cut into the work as new
paper cuts. Remember sandpaper is not to be used as a tool in cutting
down stock when working to dimensions. In using old sandpaper run the
lathe at a moderate speed to avoid burning the wood, especially on
square or round fillets. Keep the edges of the work sharp and do not
wear them round. In using new sandpaper use a fine grit (00 or 0) and
move the paper from one end of the work to the other slowly, so that no
scratches result on the surface of the work.

The work may be finished by one of two methods. In the first method as
in finishing ordinary cabinet work, the pieces should be stained and
filled. In applying filler, run the lathe at the slowest speed after the
material has dried sufficiently to rub into the pores of the wood. If
the highlights are to be brought out, as in the case of oak, stain and
then give a light coat of shellac, and apply the filler after the
shellac is dry. The shellac keeps the dark filler from staining the
flakes of the oak darker, and the pores of the wood fill in as before.
The pores become darker than the flakes, and at the same time a smooth
surface is produced. After the filler has hardened the wood may be waxed
or varnished.

The second method, or French polishing, is rather diffic