ter.

The water was deep and quiet in this short canyon, and a hard wind
blowing up the stream made it difficult for us to gain any headway. In
this case, too, the forms of the boat were against us. With the keel
removed and with their high sides catching the wind, they were carried
back and forth like small balloons. Well, we could put up with it for
a while, for those very features would prove most valuable in the
rough-water canyons which were to follow!

Emerging from the canyon at last, we saw a ferry loaded with sheep
crossing the stream. On the left shore was a large corral, also filled
with sheep which a half dozen men were driving back and forth into
different compartments. Later these men told us there were 2400 sheep
in the flock. We took their word for it, making no attempt to count
them. The foreman of the ranch agreed to sell us some sugar and
honey,--these two articles being a welcome addition to our list of
supplies, which were beginning to show the effects of our voracious
appetites.

We found many other log cabins and ranches as we proceeded. Some of
them were deserted; at others men were busily engaged in cutting hay
or the wild grass that grew in the bottoms. The fragrance of new-mown
hay was in the air. Young boys and women were among these busy
workers, some of the women being seated on large harvesters, handling
the horses with as much dexterity as any of the men.

The entire trip through this pretty valley was full of interest. We
were hailed from the shore by some of the hay ranchers, it being a
novel sight to them to see a river expedition. At one or two of these
places we asked the reason for the deserted ranches above, and were
given evasive answers. Finally we were told that cattle rustlers from
the mountains made it so hard for the ranchers in the valleys that
there was nothing for them to do but get out. They told us, also, that
we were fortunate to get away from Johnson's ranch with our valuables!
Our former host, we were told, had committed many depredations and had
served one term for cattle stealing. Officers, disguised as
prospectors, had taken employment with him and helped him kill and
skin some cattle; the skins, with their telltale brands, having been
partially burned and buried. On this evidence he was afterwards
convicted.

Our cool welcome by the Johnsons, their suspicions of us, the sinister
arsenal of guns and pistols, all was explained! Quite likely some of
these weap