ious freezing they had received, being wet continually by
the icy water in my boat--which was leaking badly since we left Bright
Angel--and the walk out through the slush. I was glad there was little
walking to do when once at the river, and changed my shoes for
arctics, which were more roomy and less painful.

On the upper part of our trip there were occasional days when Emery
was not feeling his best, while I had been most fortunate and had
little complaint to make; now things seemed to be reversed. Emery, and
Bert too, were having the time of their lives, while I was "getting
mine" in no small doses.[6]

We had always imagined that the Grand Canyon lost its depth and
impressiveness below Diamond Creek. We were to learn our mistake. The
colour was missing, that was true, for the marble and sandstone walls
were brown, dirty, or colourless, with few of the pleasing tones of
the canyon found in the upper end. But it was still the Grand Canyon.
We were in the granite again--granite just as deep as any we had seen
above, it may have been a little deeper, and in most cases it was very
sheer. There was very little plateau, the limestone and sandstone rose
above that, just as they had above Kanab Canyon. The light-coloured
walls could not be seen.

Many of the rapids of this lower section were just as bad as any we
had gone over; one or two have been considered worse by different
parties. Two hours after leaving the Nelsons we were halted by a rapid
that made us catch our breath. It was in two sections--the lower one
so full of jagged rocks that it meant a wrecked boat. The upper part
fell about twenty feet we should judge and was bad enough. It was a
question if we could run this and keep from going over the lower part!
If we made a portage, our boats would have to be taken three or four
hundred feet up the side of the cliff. The rapid was too strong to
line a boat down. We concluded to risk running the first part. Bert
climbed to the head of the second section of the rapid, where a
projecting point of granite narrowed the stream, and formed a quiet
eddy just above the foaming plunge. If we could keep out of the centre
and land here we would be safe. Our shoes were removed, our trousers
were rolled to our knees and we removed our coats. If we had to swim
there, we were going to be prepared. The life-preservers were well
inflated, and tied; then we made the plunge, Emery taking the lead, I
following close behind. Our plan