ult to send troops hither for its defence; for we had yet above
two thousand miles to Muscovy, properly so called.

After this we passed several great rivers, and two dreadful deserts, one
of which we were sixteen days passing over, and which, as I said, was to
be called No Man's Land; and on the 13th of April we came to the
frontiers of the Muscovite dominions. I think the first city, or town,
or fortress, whatever it might be called, that belonged to the czar of
Muscovy, was called Argun, being on the west side of the river Argun.

I could not but discover an infinite satisfaction; that I was now
arrived in, as I called it, a Christian country; or, at least, in a
country governed by Christians: for though the Muscovites do, in my
opinion, but just deserve the name of Christians (yet such they pretend
to be, and are very devout in their way:) it would certainly occur to
any man who travels the world as I have done, and who had any power of
reflection; I say, it would occur to him, to reflect, what a blessing it
is to be brought into the world where the name of God, and of a
Redeemer, is known, worshipped, and adored--and not where the people,
given up by Heaven to strong delusions, worship the devil, and prostrate
themselves to stocks and stones; worship monsters, elements,
horrible-shaped animals, and statues, or images of monsters. Not a town
or city we passed through but had their pagods, their idols, and their
temples; and ignorant people worshipping even the works of their
own hands!

Now we came where, at least, a face of the Christian worship appeared,
where the knee was bowed to Jesus; and whether ignorantly or not, yet
the Christian religion was owned, and the name of the true God was
called upon and adored; and it made the very recesses of my soul rejoice
to see it. I saluted the brave Scotch merchant I mentioned above, with
my first acknowledgment of this; and, taking him by the hand, I said to
him, "Blessed be God, we are once again come among Christians!" He
smiled, and answered, "Do not rejoice too soon, countryman; these
Muscovites are but an odd sort of Christians; and but for the name of
it, you may see very little of the substance for some months farther of
our journey."

"Well," said I, "but still it is better than paganism, and worshipping
of devils."--"Why, I'll tell you," said he; "except the Russian soldiers
in garrisons, and a few of the inhabitants of the cities upon the road,
all the rest