f the port watch made
our simple preparations, received twenty-five cents each, and were
turned adrift on the beach to enjoy ourselves. We had our liberty, but
we didn't know what to do with it. There was a native town and a couple
of low groggeries kept by Chinamen, where some of my shipmates promptly
invested a portion of their wealth in some horrible liquor, the smell of
which was enough to make an ordinary individual sick. There was no place
apparently where one could get a meal, so that the prospect of our stay
ashore lasting a day did not seem very great. I was fortunate enough,
however, to foregather with a Scotchman who was a beach-comber,
and consequently "knew the ropes." I dare say he was an unmitigated
blackguard whenever he got the chance, but he was certainly on his best
behaviour with me. He took me into the country a bit to see the sights,
which were such as most of the Pacific islands afford. Wonderful indeed
were the fantastic rocks, twisted into innumerable grotesque shapes,
and, along the shores, hollowed out into caverns of all sizes, some
large enough to shelter an army. He was quite familiar with the natives,
understanding enough of their queer lingo to get along. By his friendly
aid we got some food--yams, and fish cooked in native fashion, i.e. in
heated holes in the ground, for which the friendly Kanakas would take no
payment, although they looked murderous enough to be cannibals. It does
not do to go by looks always.

Well, after a long ramble, the Scotchman and I laid our weary bodies
down in the shade of a big rock, and had a grand sleep, waking up again
a little before sunset. We hastened down to the beach off the town,
where all my watchmates were sitting in a row, like lost sheep, waiting
to be taken on board again. They had had enough of liberty; indeed, such
liberty as that was hardly worth having. It seems hardly credible, but
we were actually glad to get on board again, it was so miserable ashore,
The natives were most unsociable at the port, and we could not make
ourselves understood, so there was not much fun to be had. Even those
who were inclined to drink had too little for a spree, which I was
not sorry for, since doubtless a very unpleasant reception would have
awaited them had they come on board drunk.

Next day the starboard watch went on liberty, while we who had received
our share were told off to spend the day wooding and watering. In this
most pleasant of occupations (whe