on bring us to the river in the vicinity of the
Falls. The country we were now passing through was of the most desolate
character, denuded of trees and the surface covered with caribou moss,
Labrador tea plants, blueberry-bushes, and thousands of boulders. By
keeping to the ridges fair progress was made; but when compelled to
leave the higher ground and skirt the borders of the lakes, dense
thickets of alders and willows were encountered, and these greatly
impeded our advance. Language seems inadequate to describe the
desolation of this upland landscape. No living thing was encountered,
and the silence of primordial time reigned supreme.

Just before sunset we went into camp on a hill-side near a large
lake, and soon after, from the top of a high rock, beheld a great
column of mist rising like smoke against the western sky. This we knew
marked the position of the Falls, and, needless to say, our spirits
rose--oblivious of our bleak surroundings--as we contemplated the near
attainment of our journey's end. During the night the thermometer
registered a minimum temperature of forty-one degrees, and we were
treated to a superb display of Northern Lights.

September 2 was a day memorable as marking the date of our arrival at
the Grand Falls. A rough march over the rocks and bogs intervened,
however, before we reached this goal. As we approached the river,
spruce-forests of a heavier growth appeared, and, pressing on through
these, although we could no longer see the overhanging mist, the deep
roar of falling waters was borne to our ears with growing distinctness.
After what seemed an intolerable length of time--so great was our
eagerness--a space of light in the trees ahead made known the presence
of the river. Quickening our steps, we pushed on, and with beating
hearts emerged from the forest near the spot where the river plunged
into the chasm with a deafening roar.

A single glance showed us that we had before us one of the greatest
waterfalls in the world. Standing at the rocky brink of the chasm, a
wild and tumultuous scene lay before us, a scene possessing elements of
sublimity and with details not to be apprehended in the first moments of
wondering contemplation. Far up-stream one beheld the surging, fleecy
waters and tempestuous billows, dashing high their crests of foam, all
forced onward with resistless power towards the steep rock whence they
took their wild leap into the deep pool below. Turning to the very
br