It had now
become the very centre of Christianising influences, whence rays of
bright light were emanating and reaching the farthest islands of the
Pacific Ocean.

I have seldom seen a more attractive-looking spot than Raratonga
appeared as we came off it. In the centre rise mountains four thousand
feet above the level of the sea, with lower hills and beautiful valleys
around them, clothed with every variety of tropical tree and shrub. At
the foot of the hills is a taro swamp, and then a belt of rich country
covered with cocoa-nut, bread-fruit, and banana trees; and then a broad
white sandy beach, and a band of blue water; and next a black broad
coral reef, like a gigantic wall, against which the swell of the Pacific
comes thundering, and rising majestically to the height of twenty feet,
curls over and breaks into masses of sparkling foam. The openings in
the reef are few and narrow, so that no ship can anchor near the
coral-girt isle. Canoes, however came off to us with natives on board,
well clothed, and gentle in their manners, who welcomed the missionaries
with a warmth and affection which must have been very gratifying to
them.

I accompanied the captain on shore to obtain supplies. We took with us
a chest of suitable goods for barter. An officer met us on the beach,
the appointed salesman of the place, and putting out his hand, said,
"Blessing on you." He then led us to the market-house, where we found
collected a large store of all the chief productions of the island,--
cocoa-nuts, bananas, potatoes, yams, pumpkins, hops, fowls, eggs, and
many other things. We selected all we required, payment was made, and
the salesman engaged four canoes to carry them off at once to the ship.

I was but a short time on shore, but I saw enough to wonder at.
Everybody was well clothed,--the men in jackets, shirts, waistcoats, and
trousers, with straw hats, and many had shoes and socks; the women in
gowns, shawls or mantles, and bonnets. There were many stone cottages,
neatly furnished, and others of a less enduring character. There was a
handsome stone church, and an institution, a substantial stone building,
for training native youths for the ministry, surrounded by cottages, the
residences of those who were married; while gardens and cultivated
fields were seen on every side. Such, I was assured, was the condition
of the whole island, there being ample church and school accommodation
for all the inhabitants, provi