hat marvellous
succession of hills and vales, hamlets and rivers, fields and gardens,
so wonderfully harmonious beneath the pearl tinted sky. How it all
charms and thrills, and how near the surface is one's emotion on
hearing a soldier voice exclaim:

"What a country to die for!"

So the hours sped by, and at length we reached our destination. P----
is a flourishing little city, perched on the side of a rocky hill, with
a broad landscape spreading out at its feet.

The best hotel is called "L'hotel des Hommes Illustres"--and its facade
is adorned with the statues of the above mentioned gentlemen carved in
stone. The proprietor, who built the edifice and paid the bill, having
been sole judge in the choice of celebrities, the result is as
astonishing as it is eclectic, and though absolutely devoid of beauty,
thoroughly imposing.

We arrived before our luggage, which was conveyed by so old and puffy a
horse that we considered it criminal not to leave our cab and finish
the hill on foot. At the top of a monumental staircase we entered the
hotel office, behind whose desk were enthroned two persons of most
serious aspect; the one, stout and florid of complexion with a long
nose and an allure worthy of Louis XIV, proudly bore upon her head such
an extraordinary quantity of blond hair arranged in so complicated a
fashion that I trembled to think of the time required to dress it. The
other, sallow faced, with a long curved chin, might have been taken for
a Spanish Infanta, pickled in vinegar and allspice.

The formality of greetings accomplished, princess number one produced a
book in which we were to sign our names. The dignity and importance
she attached to this ceremony would certainly not have been misplaced
in a Grand Chamberlain preparing the official register for the
signature of Peace preliminaries.

This, together with the manner in which she took note of our names,
drying them with a spoonful of gold sand, gave me the illusion that I
had just performed some important rite.

"One or two rooms?" she queried.

"One big room, Madame."

"With or without bath?" demanded the co-adjutor, whose voice possessed
a contralto quality utterly out of keeping with her pale blond hair and
complexion.

"With bath, please."

A new register was opened. Both bent over it closely, each showing the
other a different paragraph with her fore finger. Finally they
murmured a few inaudible syllables and then shook their h