We went on smoking our pipes.

Down near the Chiracahua Range in southeastern Arizona, there is a
butte, and halfway up that butte is a cave, and in front of that cave
is a ramshackle porch-roof or shed. This latter makes the cave into a
dwelling-house. It is inhabited by an old "alkali" and half a dozen
bear dogs. I sat with the old fellow one day for nearly an hour. It
was a sociable visit, but economical of the English language. He made
one remark, outside our initial greeting. It was enough, for in
terseness, accuracy, and compression, I have never heard a better or
more comprehensive description of the arid countries.

"Son," said he, "in this country thar is more cows and less butter,
more rivers and less water, and you kin see farther and see less than
in any other country in the world."

Now this peculiar directness of phrase means but one thing,--freedom
from the influence of convention. The cowboy respects neither the
dictionary nor usage. He employs his words in the manner that best
suits him, and arranges them in the sequence that best expresses his
idea, untrammeled by tradition. It is a phase of the same lawlessness,
the same reliance on self, that makes for his taciturnity and
watchfulness.

In essence, his dress is an adaptation to the necessities of his
calling; as a matter of fact, it is an elaboration on that. The broad
heavy felt hat he has found by experience to be more effective in
turning heat than a lighter straw; he further runs to variety in the
shape of the crown and in the nature of the band. He wears a silk
handkerchief about his neck to turn the sun and keep out the dust, but
indulges in astonishing gaudiness of color. His gauntlets save his
hands from the rope; he adds a fringe and a silver star. The heavy
wide "chaps" of leather about his legs are necessary to him when he is
riding fast through brush; he indulges in such frivolities as stamped
leather, angora hair, and the like. High heels to his boots prevent
his foot from slipping through his wide stirrup, and are useful to dig
into the ground when he is roping in the corral. Even his six-shooter
is more a tool of his trade than a weapon of defense. With it he
frightens cattle from the heavy brush; he slaughters old or diseased
steers; he "turns the herd" in a stampede or when rounding it in; and
especially is it handy and loose to his hip in case his horse should
fall and commence to drag him.

So the details of h