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r. When this developer is used an acid clearing bath is necessary, and this invites complications which may be disastrous to the prints. When experience has been gained, and a large number of prints are to be made at one time, it will be found advantageous as working longer with greater efficiency and more uniformity than some of the other developers. It is troublesome to prepare and does not keep well, apart from which there is the disadvantage that it does not permit of control in development in as large a measure as other developers. A reliable metol and hydroquinone formula is as follows: Thoroughly dissolve metol, 1/4 ounce; hydroquinone, 1/4 ounce; in water, 80 ounces; add sulphite of soda (cryst.), 4 ounces; and carbonate of soda (cryst.), 2-1/2 ounces. Bottled in 4-ounce vials and well corked, this developer retains its working power indefinitely. For normal exposures I take 2 ounces of the above and add to it 2 ounces of water. This will suffice for the development of three 8 x 10 sheets of paper, or their equivalent in smaller sheets. It is not wise to attempt to make it do more, as greenish tones will result. For the same reason, contrary to common opinion, I do not advise the addition of potassium bromide to the developer. It does not improve the developer, and may do harm. An excellent developer which must be used freshly mixed, and may be made up in a moment, is as follows: Take 1-1/2 ounces of a 25 per cent solution of sodium sulphite; dry amidol, 30 grains; 5 to 10 drops of a 10 per cent solution of potassium bromide, and dilute with 4-1/2 ounces of water. A supply of new developer should be added as this is seen to become exhausted. Other developing formulae could be given, but these two will be found to fill all requirements if properly compounded and intelligently used. The greatest difficulty in developing bromide paper is to get rich black tones when desired, but this can be completely overcome by using entirely fresh developer from time to time, and never over-working the developer, whatever it may be. As compared with the paper, developer is cheap, and it is poor economy to save on the latter. Except in rare instances the developer is better without any modifications whatever. In case of over-exposure, either general or partial, the developer after having been diluted as stated should be again diluted with its bulk of water. This gives blacker tones and more depth and life to the shado
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