r.
When this developer is used an acid clearing bath is necessary, and this
invites complications which may be disastrous to the prints. When
experience has been gained, and a large number of prints are to be made at
one time, it will be found advantageous as working longer with greater
efficiency and more uniformity than some of the other developers. It is
troublesome to prepare and does not keep well, apart from which there is
the disadvantage that it does not permit of control in development in as
large a measure as other developers.
A reliable metol and hydroquinone formula is as follows: Thoroughly
dissolve metol, 1/4 ounce; hydroquinone, 1/4 ounce; in water, 80 ounces;
add sulphite of soda (cryst.), 4 ounces; and carbonate of soda (cryst.),
2-1/2 ounces. Bottled in 4-ounce vials and well corked, this developer
retains its working power indefinitely. For normal exposures I take 2
ounces of the above and add to it 2 ounces of water. This will suffice for
the development of three 8 x 10 sheets of paper, or their equivalent in
smaller sheets. It is not wise to attempt to make it do more, as greenish
tones will result. For the same reason, contrary to common opinion, I do
not advise the addition of potassium bromide to the developer. It does not
improve the developer, and may do harm.
An excellent developer which must be used freshly mixed, and may be made
up in a moment, is as follows: Take 1-1/2 ounces of a 25 per cent solution
of sodium sulphite; dry amidol, 30 grains; 5 to 10 drops of a 10 per cent
solution of potassium bromide, and dilute with 4-1/2 ounces of water. A
supply of new developer should be added as this is seen to become
exhausted.
Other developing formulae could be given, but these two will be found to
fill all requirements if properly compounded and intelligently used.
The greatest difficulty in developing bromide paper is to get rich black
tones when desired, but this can be completely overcome by using entirely
fresh developer from time to time, and never over-working the developer,
whatever it may be. As compared with the paper, developer is cheap, and it
is poor economy to save on the latter.
Except in rare instances the developer is better without any modifications
whatever. In case of over-exposure, either general or partial, the
developer after having been diluted as stated should be again diluted with
its bulk of water. This gives blacker tones and more depth and life to the
shado
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