rtake. My main purpose was to search for the remnants of
primitive civilization among the more isolated of the native Indian
tribes; and out of the fragments thus found, pieced together with what
more I could glean from the early ecclesiastical and civil records, to
recreate, so far as this was possible, the fabric that was destroyed by
the Spanish conquerors. Nowhere could my investigations be conducted to
better advantage than in the State of Michoacan (of which State the city
of Morelia is the capital) and in the adjacent State of Jalisco; for in
this region tribes still exist which never have been, reduced to more
than nominal subjection, and which, maintain to a great extent their
primitive customs and their primitive faith, though curiously mingling
with this latter many Christian observances. Indeed, the independence of
the Indians of these parts is so notable that the proverb "Free as
Jalisco" is current throughout Mexico. Moreover, Morelia is a city rich
in ancient records. The archives of the Franciscan province, that has
its centre here extend back to the year 1531; those of the Bishopric of
Michoacan to the year 1538; and those of the Colegio de San Nicolas to
the year 1540; while in the recently founded Museo Michoacano already
has been collected a rich store of archaeological material. In a word,
there was no place in all Mexico where my studies and my investigations
could be pursued to such advantage as they could be pursued here.

From a fellow-archaeologist in the City of Mexico I brought a letter of
introduction to the director of the Museo, the learned Dr. Nicolas Leon;
and so cordially was this letter worded, and so cordially was it
received, that within the day of my coming into that strange city I
found myself in the midst of friends. At once their hearts and their
houses were opened to me, and they gave me with a warm enthusiasm the
benefit of their knowledge and of their active assistance forwarding the
work that I had in hand.

In the quiet retirement of the Museo I opened to that one of its members
to whom the director especially had commended me, Don Rafael Moreno, the
purposes which I had in view, and the means by which I hoped to
accomplish them. "Surely," I said, "among the free Indians in the
mountains hereabouts much may be found--in customs, in tone of thought,
in religion--that has remained unchanged since the time of the
conquest."

Don Rafael nodded. "Fray Antonio has said as much,"